Tokyo 2020: Garnbret defends the combined title to win third gold at IFSC World Championships

Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret successfully defended her combined title to win her third gold medal of the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Japan. The Slovenian laid down a huge marker before climbing’s Olympic debut at Tokyo Olympic 2020 where the combined will be the sole event contested. Olympic Fans who want to watch the live competition of Olympic Sport Climbing can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

She ended on a total of 12.00 points as she added to the individual bouldering and lead titles she had already claimed at the Ésforta Arena Hachiōji.  Garnbret was sixth out of eight finalists in the opening speed discipline but was second in bouldering and topped the pile in lead to claim victory.

The Slovenian was one of only two athletes to achieve a top in the bouldering as she confirmed her status as the world’s best all-round female climber.

“I didn’t have the best start in speed I didn’t have the best start in bouldering,” said Garnbret who also won the combined World Cup title this term to The Japan Times. But I enjoyed every single round and it just feels amazing I have had a dream season.”

Akiyo Noguchi won home silver for Japan to give the Tokyo Olympic 2020 host nation hope of success at the Olympics. She ended on 21.00 points after winning the bouldering alongside respective finishes of third and seventh in lead and speed.

Tokyo 2020: Garnbret defends the combined title to win third gold at IFSC World Championships
Tokyo 2020: Garnbret defends the combined title to win third gold at IFSC World Championships

Noguchi had already won a silver medal in the individual bouldering Shauna Coxsey who topped the qualification round clinched bronze with a second place in speed the third place in bouldering and a seventh place in the lead at Olympic 2020.

The Briton ended on 42.00 points and earned a second third place following her bouldering bronze.  Alexandra Miroslaw of Poland topped the speed round after also winning individual gold in the discipline in Hachiōji but missed out on a combined medal in fourth place. The men’s combined final is tomorrow on the last day of the Championships.

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Olympic 2020 qualification and gold medals up for grabs at IFSC World Championships

Qualification for the first Olympic sport climbing competitions as well as gold medals will be up for grabs at the International Federation of Sport Climbing World Championships in Japan. Fans who want to watch the live competition of Olympic Sport Climbing can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

The 12-day event in Hachioji located on the outskirts of the Japanese capital includes bouldering lead speed and combined events and has taken on added significance after sport climbing was added to the Tokyo Olympic 2020 program.

The top 20 climbers in the men’s and women’s events to have entered the bouldering lead and speed disciplines are set to contest the combined competition on August 18 and 19.

Olympic 2020 qualification and gold medals up for grabs at IFSC World Championships
Olympic 2020 qualification and gold medals up for grabs at IFSC World Championships

Seven of the highest placed athletes per gender with a maximum of two per country will secure their place at Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games where sport climbing is due to make its Olympic debut.

Austria’s Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret of Slovenia arrive at the World Championships taking place at the Esforta Arena Hachioji as the defending combined champions.

Garnbret considered the dominant force in women’s climbing and who is tipped for Olympic glory at next year’s Games, will aim to retain her bouldering title.

Schubert is also reigning lead gold medalist but told the Japan Times his main focus at this year’s World Championships was clinching a place at Tokyo 2020.

The Austrian said. “My biggest goal was to win in front of my home crowd in Innsbruck Austria, especially in lead.”

“This year, the goal is completely different. I’ve been preparing to try to do well in the combined discipline because my main goal is to qualify for next year for the Olympics in Tokyo.”

Olympic 2020 qualification and gold medals up for grabs at IFSC World Championships
Olympic 2020 qualification and gold medals up for grabs at IFSC World Championships

Austria’s Jessica Pilz will bid to defend her women’s lead title but is expected to face a strong challenge from teenage sensation Seo Chae Hyun of South Korea.

She will compete off the back of consecutive World Cup victories. Adam Ondra of the Czech Republic and Germany’s Alexander Megos will is among those hoping to dethrone Schubert in the men’s lead event.

Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi and Fanny Gibert of France have the ominous task of trying to beat Garnbret in the women’s bouldering competition. On the men’s side, Ondra and Tomoa Narasaki of Japan, the current world number one, will be aiming for gold.

Iranian defending champion and world record holder Reza Alipour Shenazandifard will be the one to watch in the men’s speed discipline along with World Cup leader and world number Bassa Mawem of France.

China’s Song Yiling appears to have the best chance of replacing Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw as the women’s world speed champion. The event is due to begin tomorrow with women’s bouldering qualification and concludes on August 21.

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USA Announced overall national Climbing team for Tokyo Olympic 2020

The first round of athletes has been selected to represent the USA on the IFSC World Cup Circuit in hopes of Olympic qualification with those five multi-colored rings and Tokyo 2020 on every competitive climber’s mind athletes around the world have been training full throttle for Olympic 2020. It’s now just one short year away it’s game time.

With climbing to be included in the Olympic Games for the first time, there have been equal parts of excitement and confusion about how athletes will qualify. For the selection of U.S athletes, the first part step is to earn a spot on Team USA. Fans who want to watch the live competition of Olympic Sport Climbing can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

USA Announced overall national Climbing team for Tokyo Olympic 2020
USA Announced overall national Climbing team for Tokyo Olympic 2020

Now 8 athletes’ 4 women and four men have taken that step and are that much closer to Tokyo 2020. USA Climbing announced the team on Instagram the members of the U.S Overall National Team Sean Bailey, Kyra Condie, Ashima Shiraishi, Brooke Raboutou, Drew Ruana, Zach Galla, Nathaniel Coleman, and Margo Hayes.

They will compete in the IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) competition circuit over the next year in hopes of earning one of the 40 20 for men 20 for women spots available for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games.

How were these climbers chosen?

There were several different avenues by which these athletes earned their spots. The first was to win the Combined Invitational this is how Kyra Condie and Zach Galla secured their places. Even if you weren’t Condie or Galla through your performance still mattered and served as selection criteria, along with how you did in the Bouldering Open National Championships and the Open Sport and Speed National Championships.

Nathaniel Coleman and Brooke Raboutou could arrogance themselves on coming in second place at the Combined putting them in good standing. Ashima Shiraishi came in fourth for women and Margo Hayes placed fifth.

USA Announced overall national Climbing team for Tokyo Olympic 2020
USA Announced overall national Climbing team for Tokyo Olympic 2020

Ashima Shiraishi at the Bouldering Open National Championships, topped the podium in first for women, with Margo Hayes in third and Brooke Raboutou coming in fifth. Sean Bailey matched Shiraishi in the men’s competition with a remarkable win. Nathaniel Coleman was right on his heels in second Drew Ruana placed third and Zach Galla rounded out the top four.

Come late July, the team will be reformed though it could be the exact same make-up of the top four men and top four women in the U.S overall ranking. Although it is not guaranteed that any

American climber will qualify for Tokyo this whittled down core team formed could produce America’s and the world’s first Olympic climbers.

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Greenall gave a mission as GB Climbing team head Coach for Tokyo 2020

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has selected Tom Greenall as the GB Climbing head coach in its quest for success at the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo. Fans who want to watch the live competition of Olympic Sport Climbing can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

The role has been shaped in partnership with the English Institute of Sport and has been funded through the National Lottery backed UK Sport medal support plan and UK Sport aspiration program.

TOM Greenall has extensive experience of international performance coaching and the design implementation and management of the elite level climbing program and is expected to lead the nation into Tokyo 2020 Summer Games where climbing will make its Olympic debut.

Greenall gave a mission as GB Climbing team head Coach for Tokyo 2020
Greenall gave a mission as GB Climbing team head Coach for Tokyo 2020

He previously led Britain’s junior bouldering team as a manager and coach and was a calculated lead for talent profiling in climbing with the BMC.

Greenall said. “I am delighted to have been appointed as head coach for GB Climbing.”

“We have a tremendous pool of talented and capable athletes here in Great Britain and I am looking forward to working with them in the pursuit of excellence in the coming months.”

Greenall has also supported elite climbers to podium success on the World Cup and World Championship stage and is leading British climber Shauna Coxsey’s bid for Olympic qualification for Olympic 2020.

Last month Molly Thompson-Smith and Will Bosi became the first British stars to reach the Lead World Cup final while Coxsey has achieved two bouldering podiums and set a British speed climbing record.

Greenall gave a mission as GB Climbing team head Coach for Tokyo 2020
Greenall gave a mission as GB Climbing team head Coach for Tokyo 2020

Head of managed sport at the English Institute of Sport Lorraine Brown said the selection of Tom Greenall as a GB head coach is a groundbreaking moment for the BMC and GB Climbing and a continued statement of intent from the BMC to maximize the opportunity of Tokyo 2020. 

“Tom’s personal philosophy to progress through innovation will ensure the GB climbers who qualify for Tokyo Olympic 2020 will be best prepared by maximizing the English Institute of Sport resources available.”

I am excited to be working with the English Institute of Sport and the BMC as we build towards Olympic 2020 and beyond. The first Olympic selection event will take place in Hachioji Japan between 18 to 21 August.

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Sport Climbing’s all-rounder Sean Mccoll is in a leading position for Tokyo Olympic 2020

Sports Climber Sean Mccoll is a very happy breed of sport climber. The 29-year-old Canadian is a 4 time international federation of sport climbing world cup overall combined rankings champion. In short, he is as close to a hot favorite as you can get three years out from the Tokyo Summer Games 2020. Fans who want to watch the live-action of Olympic Sport Climbing in Olympic 2020 can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

“It’s something I have been dreaming of my whole life said lead bouldering and speed specialist McColl who has already put the label future Olympian on the front page of his website. I love climbing competing for testing myself. I compete in almost every competition I can.”

Sport Climbing’s all-rounder Sean Mccoll is in a leading position for Tokyo Olympic 2020
Sport Climbing’s all-rounder Sean Mccoll is in a leading position for Tokyo Olympic 2020

This passionate affair with sport climbing started when McColl was just 10 years old. From the start he found himself drawn to all 3 disciplines in an era when the sport has been developing at an extraordinary pace and the vast majority of his peers chose to specialize the multifaceted McColl has always stood out from the crowd.

He said. “Preparations and therefore the stronger competitor I will be also I love traveling and getting on planes and seeing new cultures. I don’t mind eating different foods. I am much laid back if I get to a place and something has gone wrong I just think ‘this is how it is’ and I just get on with it.”

World Cup winner also relishes the chance to make up for any poor displays in one discipline with stellar results in another. But he is well aware that it takes a Herculean effort to excel in all three.

Sport Climbing’s all-rounder Sean Mccoll is in a leading position for Tokyo Olympic 2020
Sport Climbing’s all-rounder Sean Mccoll is in a leading position for Tokyo Olympic 2020

McColl said.  “Speed climbing is my weakest of the three disciplines I don’t train in it as much. It is much closer to running than lead and bouldering so it is something I will have to focus on more and more in the lead-up to competitions that will serve as Olympic qualification.”

The almost unbelievably minuscule size of the handholds and footholds are very much part of the reason behind this need for practiced strength. And McColl is very hopeful that it is an element of the sport that will reach television viewers and live spectators alike in Tokyo Olympic 2020.

The handholds are as little as 1cm or 0.5cm and you have to move your body 90 to 120cm and the footholds are often terrible you can barely put your feet on them.

He said. “I am really hoping with technology with the cameras and maybe the interviews and the commentary people will be able to see that climbers make the moves look really easy but they are really not.”

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Tokyo Olympic 2020 – Things you need to know about Sport Climbing

Last weekend 450 of the world’s best rock climbers organized in the outskirts of Moscow at the CSKA Sports Complex for the second stop on the International Federation of Sport Climbing’s (IFSC) World Cup tour. Fans who want to watch the live-action of Olympic Sport Climbing in Olympic 2020 can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

All eyes were on Czech climber Adam Ondra the reigning king of really hard rock climbing and a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. A week prior Ondra had made a win at the first bouldering World Cup of the 2019 season proving he deserves to be considered a frontrunner for competitive climbing’s first Olympics.

Tokyo Olympic 2020 – Things you need to know about Sport Climbing
Tokyo Olympic 2020 – Things you need to know about Sport Climbing

With rock climbing’s debut in the Olympic 2020 Games in Tokyo less than 16 months away, the effects are already being felt. Top athletes are vying for Olympics slots while a rush of business dollars and media attention bears down on the emerging sport. While most of the competitors in Moscow were not household names the high level of competition highlighted how far the nascent sport has come.

“It’s going to be different says Canadian climber and Combined World Cup winner Sean McColl. I don’t think competitive climbing will settle down until it’s been in three or four Olympics. Right now everything is still evolving.”

Tokyo Olympic 2020 – Things you need to know about Sport Climbing
Tokyo Olympic 2020 – Things you need to know about Sport Climbing

When it was formally announced in 2016 that climbing would be a medal sport in the Olympic 2020 the format was derided by many throughout the climbing world. At the Tokyo games, climbers will compete in three disciplines bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing for one combined set of medals per gender. In particular speed climbing’s inclusion was widely criticized.

“I think what tipped the scale for me and actually made I decide to try and qualify for the Olympics was the fear of regretting not having tried it Megos wrote in a recent email. Considering my age and the fact that I want to shift my focus more on outdoor climbing in the future the Tokyo 2020 will be my first and last chance to ever compete in the Olympics.”

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Top Sport Climbers set a high goal on the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games

Olympic Sport climbing is set to make its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Summer Games. The world’s leading climbers are excited about the growth even if they are critical of the format that has been adopted for the Games. The man who is widely regarded as the world’s best rock climber has his sights set firmly on the Olympic 2020 Summer Games. Fans who want to watch the live-action of Olympic Sport Climbing in Olympic 2020 can get Olympic Sport Climbing Tickets online.

Ondra plans to make preparing for the indoor events in Tokyo his prime focus in 2019. Ondra came in second in the Tokyo Olympic combined at the World Championships in Innsbruck in September behind Austria’s Jakob Schubert and ahead of German Jan Hojer.

Top Sport Climbers set a high goal on the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
Olympic Sport Climbing Summer Games 2020

In climbing circles, the 25-year-old Czech is known as the master of the impossible. The extreme overhanging route Silence in a cave near Flatlander in Norway which Ondra conquered in September 2017, is regarded as the most difficult rock-climbing route ever mastered the highest grade 9c on the French climbing scale.

He said. “I have to accept it as long as I want to compete in the Olympics. That’s the format there is no option. The only other option is not taking part.”

In Tokyo, 2020 climbers will be competing in a combined event made up of three very different disciplines speed climbing lead and bouldering. The debate about whether this mix of events makes sense is similar to the debate about the combined in downhill skiing.

The critics say they just aren’t but supporters of the format such as Martin Veith director of competitive sport at the German Alpine Club DAV argue that they don’t need to be. Ondra is one of the harshest critics of the format that has been adopted for sport climbing’s Olympic premiere but he has grudgingly agreed to go along with it.

Top Sport Climbers set a high goal on the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
Olympic Sport Climbing Summer Games 2020

“We are very excited about the Olympic triathlon it is a new discipline that you have to train for specifically it will be interesting to see how specialists deal with disciplines they don’t favor. This will be easier for some than for others.”

Megos has also been competing with a view to the Tokyo 2020 Summer Games since the end of last year. However, he isn’t even sure if he really wants to take part in the Olympics. Adam Ondra’s background is in competition climbing. He was the first to win both the lead and the bouldering World Cup and in 2014 he became the first athlete to win gold in both disciplines. Speed climbing is his weakest discipline something that also applies to Germany’s Alex Megos.

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