The formula for excelling at sport climbing one of five sports joining the Olympic program at the Tokyo 2020 games is wild and varied. It can range from never doing the dishes to employing a 100m sprint coach as Canada’s all-around expert Sean McColl reveals. Fans who want to watch live action of Olympic Climbing Sport at Tokyo Olympic summer 2020 can buy Olympic Climbing Tickets online.
There is arguably no one better qualified than Canada’s Sean McColl to throw light on the preparations being made by those hoping to win sport climbing’s first ever Olympic gold medal.
The 31-year-old has been competing at the very top for more than two decades and was a leading advocate for Olympic inclusion. As the overall world champion in four of the past 10 seasons he is also one of the favorites for golden glory in Tokyo.
“There is no blueprint on how to train for all three disciplines at the same time the current world No.5 in the combined format you can’t look historically you can’t even ask many older competitors. Each of us really has to decide what percentage of time we will spend on each discipline.”
McColl does have something of a head start compared to his rivals in this regard. The Vancouver native has been an all-rounder from the very beginning always reveling in the multifaceted demands of each distinct discipline.
Top training tips for Lead
“Lead is our aerobic discipline even though it is only six minutes long the routes contain between 40 to 60 moves so you need endurance.”
he said of an event that requires competitors to scale a wall higher than 15m clipping their rope into pre-fixed runners on the way up. Placing is decided by the height reached with time used as a tiebreaker.
“Lead specialists are lean like long distance runners. A lot of the training is just spending time on the wall you have to be so strong.”
Top training tips for Bouldering
Part of the magic for fans watching sport climbing in Tokyo will be the sheer variety of challenges on show. Once competitors reach the bouldering wall they will have four minutes to unpick the puzzle of varied routes up 4m-high walls each requiring distinct skills. All athletes will come to the problems fresh having been held in a closed waiting room and no ropes will be used.
“The whole point of it is that it is extremely hard to do a boulder first try and it is how you adapt to going from falling and it looking like it is impossible to actually complete the climbs in time.”
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